| Evinrude 4 HP LIGHT WIN OUTBOARD MOTOR..getting it back up and running. (It took some patience and work. |
This old outboard has some sentimental value to me.
Ive used this motor since 1972 around Clayton Lake
where my parents had their cottage.
It was very good and reliable at one time. Lately..it has
spent more time in storage and waiting repair.
About 3 or 4 years ago ..it quit dead out on Clayton Lake.
It just sort of quickly died.
Last fall I took it to my small engine course and it was
determined that the fuel pump was the problem.
This spring, I installed the new fuel pump. At first..the
motor wouldn't go. I tried the old trick of injecting fuel
directly into the spark plug holes (combustion chamber)
and after about 6 pulls of the starter cord,. the motor
reluctantly turned over (a bit).
Ive used this motor since 1972 around Clayton Lake
where my parents had their cottage.
It was very good and reliable at one time. Lately..it has
spent more time in storage and waiting repair.
About 3 or 4 years ago ..it quit dead out on Clayton Lake.
It just sort of quickly died.
Last fall I took it to my small engine course and it was
determined that the fuel pump was the problem.
This spring, I installed the new fuel pump. At first..the
motor wouldn't go. I tried the old trick of injecting fuel
directly into the spark plug holes (combustion chamber)
and after about 6 pulls of the starter cord,. the motor
reluctantly turned over (a bit).
At first..it didn't look too promising. I had to do this injection trick (with a syringe and gas) about 4 times and generally the engine showed more life.
Finally..it would run a few seconds and die and run a few seconds and die. Keeping at it..I would keep starting it and noticed each time the engine
would run just slightly a little better and longer.
To make a long story short..I kept with it and after several hours ..the engine would run good for 5 or 10 minutes..stall out and then run again after
a couple of pulls on the cord.
I put some slick 50 fuel conditioner and cleaner in the gas and kept running it. Im now ready to take it out on the lake with a backup engine and
try and give it a good run.
Hopefully the carbuerator will clean itself up with use and get slowly better. I will go out and purchase a carbeurator rebuild kit for possible future
use.
Finally..it would run a few seconds and die and run a few seconds and die. Keeping at it..I would keep starting it and noticed each time the engine
would run just slightly a little better and longer.
To make a long story short..I kept with it and after several hours ..the engine would run good for 5 or 10 minutes..stall out and then run again after
a couple of pulls on the cord.
I put some slick 50 fuel conditioner and cleaner in the gas and kept running it. Im now ready to take it out on the lake with a backup engine and
try and give it a good run.
Hopefully the carbuerator will clean itself up with use and get slowly better. I will go out and purchase a carbeurator rebuild kit for possible future
use.
This fuel pump cost me about $70.00. You can buy a rebuild kit for alot
less but they are sometimes tricky and you have to pay very close
attention to detail when rebuilding. I chose the ready made unit.
GLAD I did..because even with this new unit..it was darned hard to get
this motor going. Eventually after hours of starting and stalling..the
engine began running better and better.
Im sure the new gas was flushing out the carbeurator and cleaning it
slowly. It had been sitting idle for years.
less but they are sometimes tricky and you have to pay very close
attention to detail when rebuilding. I chose the ready made unit.
GLAD I did..because even with this new unit..it was darned hard to get
this motor going. Eventually after hours of starting and stalling..the
engine began running better and better.
Im sure the new gas was flushing out the carbeurator and cleaning it
slowly. It had been sitting idle for years.
I tried playing with the two settings on the engine ..SLOW..LEAN RICH..WITH SOME
LIMITED SUCCESS. I marked the settings that worked best and would experiment
from there.
I found the speed throttle rather flaky. If I changed speeds the engine would often
stall. Later as I ran the engine more..this became less of a problem but the engine still
does not seem to have power nor does it cope with speed adjustment changes very
well. MORE FIDDLING TO BE DONE!
LIMITED SUCCESS. I marked the settings that worked best and would experiment
from there.
I found the speed throttle rather flaky. If I changed speeds the engine would often
stall. Later as I ran the engine more..this became less of a problem but the engine still
does not seem to have power nor does it cope with speed adjustment changes very
well. MORE FIDDLING TO BE DONE!
PROBLEM..THE MOTOR IS RUNNING BUT ONLY ON ONE CYLINDER OF THE 2!! FOUND THIS OUT
WHEN I looked at the plugs. Both brand new plugs. One was blackened and used looking and the other
was shiny like new. Took out my compression tester. One cylinder had compression..about 60 lbs/sq in and
the other had zero. Also..put my thumb over the spark plug hole and tested it that way. You can get a
general idea that way of compression. So..now..I will disassemble the engine ..being careful to take lots of
photos and do some good sketches and keep all the parts labelled and well organized.
WHEN I looked at the plugs. Both brand new plugs. One was blackened and used looking and the other
was shiny like new. Took out my compression tester. One cylinder had compression..about 60 lbs/sq in and
the other had zero. Also..put my thumb over the spark plug hole and tested it that way. You can get a
general idea that way of compression. So..now..I will disassemble the engine ..being careful to take lots of
photos and do some good sketches and keep all the parts labelled and well organized.
| now to take the engine apart (carefully)..taking lots of pictures (to share with you..and as well..to document the pieces of the engine..so that I will know how to put it back together again. |
This old plastic fishing tackle box is perfect for storing
all the bits and pieces and sub assemblies of this
outboard engine.
NOTE: when I worked for National Defence, I would
work on cataloguing bits and pieces of military
equipment. The equipment would be arranged in a top
down breakdown.
I will do a breakdown of the equipment by stocking the
parts in the little compartments of this tackle box from
top to bottom and left to right as I take the thing apart.
The larger covers and sub-assemblies will go into the
large bottom compartment. Note the labels. I will label
items at times in order to keep track of things.
I bought a bunch of these labels at the dollar store.
all the bits and pieces and sub assemblies of this
outboard engine.
NOTE: when I worked for National Defence, I would
work on cataloguing bits and pieces of military
equipment. The equipment would be arranged in a top
down breakdown.
I will do a breakdown of the equipment by stocking the
parts in the little compartments of this tackle box from
top to bottom and left to right as I take the thing apart.
The larger covers and sub-assemblies will go into the
large bottom compartment. Note the labels. I will label
items at times in order to keep track of things.
I bought a bunch of these labels at the dollar store.
A logical starting place begin the process is the head of
the combustion chamber/engine. That is where the spark
plugs screw in and the place where the pistons compress
the air/fuel mixture and the mixture is set on fire by the
spark plugs. The head cover and gasket are shown below.
the combustion chamber/engine. That is where the spark
plugs screw in and the place where the pistons compress
the air/fuel mixture and the mixture is set on fire by the
spark plugs. The head cover and gasket are shown below.
The pistons and the piston rings looked ok to me and
they seemed to move well in and out as I turned the
propeller by hand.
If you look closely..you can see the openings in the
cylinder walls. These are ports. There are exhaust ports
and ports which allow the air/fuel mixture to be sucked
in to the cylinder from the carbeurator area of the engine.
they seemed to move well in and out as I turned the
propeller by hand.
If you look closely..you can see the openings in the
cylinder walls. These are ports. There are exhaust ports
and ports which allow the air/fuel mixture to be sucked
in to the cylinder from the carbeurator area of the engine.
Above pictured is the side panel to the combustion chamber. The gasket was a blue
type of material that probably came from a tube. When I took the panel off..the gasket
seal looked OK and the insides (coated with some carbon)..but otherwise..everything
looked to be in order.
I will clean off the carbon a little later in the process. Too much carbon build up can
cause lack of power and other problems.
type of material that probably came from a tube. When I took the panel off..the gasket
seal looked OK and the insides (coated with some carbon)..but otherwise..everything
looked to be in order.
I will clean off the carbon a little later in the process. Too much carbon build up can
cause lack of power and other problems.
NEXT ..THE CARBEURATOR WAS REMOVED FROM THE MOTOR.
I drained the gas from both the carbeurator and the fuel pump and the fuel lines.
see the tear in the head gasket ..I think this is the problem.
I examined the pistons and the rings. They look to be ok.
I'm going to replace this gasket and see if that fixes things.
I examined the pistons and the rings. They look to be ok.
I'm going to replace this gasket and see if that fixes things.
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I was thinking about rebuilding the carb but..for now I will leave it alone.
It was running ok earlier before this main problem. A carb rebuild kit consists
of all the little gaskets and seals and packings. You generally soak the old
carb in a cleaning solution after removing the old rubber parts and packings
ect. That gets all those fissures and holes and cavities clean and then the new
little parts restore the unit to new condition. -- to be sure..if I rebuild this carb in
the future..I will be taking lots of detailed pictures to help re assemble it.
Another thing I do is make sketches, notes and use lables and use an old
tackle box to store the parts..as per the picture.
It was running ok earlier before this main problem. A carb rebuild kit consists
of all the little gaskets and seals and packings. You generally soak the old
carb in a cleaning solution after removing the old rubber parts and packings
ect. That gets all those fissures and holes and cavities clean and then the new
little parts restore the unit to new condition. -- to be sure..if I rebuild this carb in
the future..I will be taking lots of detailed pictures to help re assemble it.
Another thing I do is make sketches, notes and use lables and use an old
tackle box to store the parts..as per the picture.
May 2008. Got a few new gaskets for the Evinrude.
Next page in this series has some pictures of cleaning carbon
deposits, torquing down the head gaskets and plates.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THIS PAGE...
Next page in this series has some pictures of cleaning carbon
deposits, torquing down the head gaskets and plates.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THIS PAGE...