SMALL ENGINE (HONDA ATV TRX 200) My work on the "no ignition spark problem". First I thought it was the
coil that failed..however..closer examination revealed the coil was OK. So..I proceded to follow the wires back
to a unit called the CDI module. I took the CDI cover off and the gasket..and guess what-- there were some little
bits of spring and washer on the bottom of the case. See photo below. That is usually a bad sign! When the
mechanic was working on my Ford Bronco transmission last fall..he took the cover off the transmission and a
piece of the transmission fell out! $1800 later, my transmission was rebuilt! Fortunately, this CDI unit is rather
simple. The only thing that could get complicated is if I were to reassemble the unit without properly marking
the shaft position and the magnet position properly. I would then have to position the piston to top dead center
and then find out in a manual where the postion of the magnet piece is supposed to be relative to that. That
would get the timing pretty close. The sensor/pickup coil can be positioned slightly (I believe) by turning the
metal plate that it is mounted on. I will cross that bridge if and when I have to.
Here's a tip..make some markings on what you take apart..the more the better.
coil that failed..however..closer examination revealed the coil was OK. So..I proceded to follow the wires back
to a unit called the CDI module. I took the CDI cover off and the gasket..and guess what-- there were some little
bits of spring and washer on the bottom of the case. See photo below. That is usually a bad sign! When the
mechanic was working on my Ford Bronco transmission last fall..he took the cover off the transmission and a
piece of the transmission fell out! $1800 later, my transmission was rebuilt! Fortunately, this CDI unit is rather
simple. The only thing that could get complicated is if I were to reassemble the unit without properly marking
the shaft position and the magnet position properly. I would then have to position the piston to top dead center
and then find out in a manual where the postion of the magnet piece is supposed to be relative to that. That
would get the timing pretty close. The sensor/pickup coil can be positioned slightly (I believe) by turning the
metal plate that it is mounted on. I will cross that bridge if and when I have to.
Here's a tip..make some markings on what you take apart..the more the better.
Besides the digital photos; I also drew a few drawings and sketches
of the innards of the CDI module as I dissassembled it. This is
especially important if you are not very experienced with the specific
units being worked on. I actually drew 3 sketches. Besides sketches,
put a mark on any parts to indicate their position. In this case, there is
a magnetic piece of metal that rotates 360 degrees. There is a pickup
coil of some sorts with the two wires leaving it. This pickup coil (or
whatever it happens to be) will be subjected to the moving magnetic
field and an electrical current will be generated.
In this CDI unit, there is also something that looks like breaker points
or contact points on a plate that moves somewhat.
I dont know exactly how this unit works..but ..it is mechanically broken
and I will order the parts to either replace it or rebuild it.
of the innards of the CDI module as I dissassembled it. This is
especially important if you are not very experienced with the specific
units being worked on. I actually drew 3 sketches. Besides sketches,
put a mark on any parts to indicate their position. In this case, there is
a magnetic piece of metal that rotates 360 degrees. There is a pickup
coil of some sorts with the two wires leaving it. This pickup coil (or
whatever it happens to be) will be subjected to the moving magnetic
field and an electrical current will be generated.
In this CDI unit, there is also something that looks like breaker points
or contact points on a plate that moves somewhat.
I dont know exactly how this unit works..but ..it is mechanically broken
and I will order the parts to either replace it or rebuild it.
In the sketch above, you can see the marks that are shown. I scribed these marks
with a sharp pointer on the metal parts of the CDI unit so that I could reassemble it
again later with the parts in the same positions. ONE PLACE I FORGOT TO SCRIBE IS
ON THE ROTARY SHAFT ITSELF! HOPEFULLY..IT HAS A KEYWAY OR SOMETHING. IF
NOT..I will have to consult the manual and find top dead center for the piston and
mount the magentic metal piece in the correct position.
with a sharp pointer on the metal parts of the CDI unit so that I could reassemble it
again later with the parts in the same positions. ONE PLACE I FORGOT TO SCRIBE IS
ON THE ROTARY SHAFT ITSELF! HOPEFULLY..IT HAS A KEYWAY OR SOMETHING. IF
NOT..I will have to consult the manual and find top dead center for the piston and
mount the magentic metal piece in the correct position.
May 2007. The part came in and I replaced it. It was an assembly like the pictures above and consisted of the
magnetic rotating part with attached breaker points and springs. The part had a keyway and just fit in place
nicely and came with a new hold down bolt and washer. The original gasket was in good shape so I did not
have to replace it.
I still had problems starting it. The spark was there but still no go. I went to Canadian Tire and bought a new
high performance spark plug. Now it started and runs fine. Took it for a test run tonight.
Now to replace the tires.
magnetic rotating part with attached breaker points and springs. The part had a keyway and just fit in place
nicely and came with a new hold down bolt and washer. The original gasket was in good shape so I did not
have to replace it.
I still had problems starting it. The spark was there but still no go. I went to Canadian Tire and bought a new
high performance spark plug. Now it started and runs fine. Took it for a test run tonight.
Now to replace the tires.
The defective part is pictured below. There are two small
springs on what looks like breaker points of some sort. One
of the springs is broken. I had to order the whole assembly
and it cost about $70.00
How this thing works (I believe) is the magnet rotates and
generates an electrical pulse which gets passed on to the
ignition coil (which I first thought was the problem) and the
ignition coil then generates enough high voltage to cause a
spark at the spark plug ..and then the fuel mixture ignites
and so on.
In talking to people..apparently..the ignition coils themselves
seldom actually give problems.
springs on what looks like breaker points of some sort. One
of the springs is broken. I had to order the whole assembly
and it cost about $70.00
How this thing works (I believe) is the magnet rotates and
generates an electrical pulse which gets passed on to the
ignition coil (which I first thought was the problem) and the
ignition coil then generates enough high voltage to cause a
spark at the spark plug ..and then the fuel mixture ignites
and so on.
In talking to people..apparently..the ignition coils themselves
seldom actually give problems.
Working on the Roto Tiller
Belts sometimes need
changing. They do wear out on
tillers every six or seven years
or so. Depends how they are
used and what kind of ground
you have.
It isn't that difficult to do it your
self.
Because I am in a residential
area; I cannot set up a shop to
do repairs for other people.
However..if you are stuck on a
problem and need some advice
give me a call.
I cannot do too many house
calls either. My automobile
insurance is for pleasure only.
If you are not far from one of my
shopping exursions..I could
stop by to help with a physical
task..such as shown in these
pictures. It takes some effort to
lift the tiller motor off the bottom
platform, do the oil change (the
oil plug is on the bottom of the
motor, replace the belt then re
position the motor.
The toughest part of this job
was getting the belt hooked up
while the head is mounted. Took
a few tries but I figured out the
little trick.
My tiller is run only twice a year.
Spring before the garden is
planted and fall after the garden
is out.
Sometimes with things like
tillers and snow blowers..it is a
good idea to start them and let
them run for a while to make
sure there is fresh gas in the
carb. Fuel conditioner and some
carb cleaner with a fresh tank of
gas in the spring is a good idea
too.
I tend to run my snowblower
once or twice in summer to keep
things running so the fuel
doesn't get stale or the carb
gummed up with stale fuel.
Small engines are ..well..small.
They have small carbs and can
get more easily blocked.
changing. They do wear out on
tillers every six or seven years
or so. Depends how they are
used and what kind of ground
you have.
It isn't that difficult to do it your
self.
Because I am in a residential
area; I cannot set up a shop to
do repairs for other people.
However..if you are stuck on a
problem and need some advice
give me a call.
I cannot do too many house
calls either. My automobile
insurance is for pleasure only.
If you are not far from one of my
shopping exursions..I could
stop by to help with a physical
task..such as shown in these
pictures. It takes some effort to
lift the tiller motor off the bottom
platform, do the oil change (the
oil plug is on the bottom of the
motor, replace the belt then re
position the motor.
The toughest part of this job
was getting the belt hooked up
while the head is mounted. Took
a few tries but I figured out the
little trick.
My tiller is run only twice a year.
Spring before the garden is
planted and fall after the garden
is out.
Sometimes with things like
tillers and snow blowers..it is a
good idea to start them and let
them run for a while to make
sure there is fresh gas in the
carb. Fuel conditioner and some
carb cleaner with a fresh tank of
gas in the spring is a good idea
too.
I tend to run my snowblower
once or twice in summer to keep
things running so the fuel
doesn't get stale or the carb
gummed up with stale fuel.
Small engines are ..well..small.
They have small carbs and can
get more easily blocked.
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This LATE SUMMER AND EARLY FALL..I plan to strip down my
ARGO ATV and do some maintenance on it. Check in later for some
photo shoots.
The starter needs work. The chains might need adjustment. The
frame is cracked near where the trailer ball is connected. I plan to
beef up the frame in that area.
I have a cab to mount for winter and a windshield. I also plan to take
off the top head plate of the motor and clean deposits.
ARGO ATV and do some maintenance on it. Check in later for some
photo shoots.
The starter needs work. The chains might need adjustment. The
frame is cracked near where the trailer ball is connected. I plan to
beef up the frame in that area.
I have a cab to mount for winter and a windshield. I also plan to take
off the top head plate of the motor and clean deposits.
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